8 Tips for Choosing Outdoor Furniture That You Will Love

Your outdoor space is an extension of your living space and can be done so many different ways. It is important when choosing between wooden outdoor furniture, wrought iron furniture, Environmentally Friendly Poly Furniture or any of the many alternatives for your outdoor space that you take time with your decision.

I found out what should be considered when choosing lawn and garden furniture. Read through these tips, you will be glad you did.

1)Set a budget

• Purchasing a dining set for example can range from a couple of hundred dollars to thousands of dollars. So you need to decide ahead of time the amount of money you can spend and then stick to that number.
• Consider waiting till after July 4th to buy because there will be sales on outdoor furniture.
• You can also save alot of money by replacing your cushions, umbrella and other outdoor accessories rather than replacing the entire furniture set

2)Think about where your furniture will be placed.

• Does the space get a ton of sun? Will the furniture be sitting on grass or on a hard surface? Your answers will help determine if you need an umbrella or if you need a lighter weight furniture for grassy spots.
• What are the views you want to enjoy? Will your outdoor furniture be close to the house or off in the distance? Outdoor furniture that is close to the house needs to stay consistant with you house’s architecture. While outdoor furniture further away, leaves more possibilities for varied styles

3)Measure the space that you're planning to fill.

• Keep in mind that the chairs around a table take up an additional 24 inches of space. And then you'll need an extra 24 to 36 inches from the back of the chairs to be able to walk around.
• Before you buy, go home with the furniture measurements and use chalk to draw the dimensions or cutouts of your furnitures dimensions.
• When working with a small space, consider a bar table set rather than a full-sized table. Bar stools rather than bar chairs will also conserve space. If you must go with a traditional dining table, consider armless chairs.

4)Determine the type of function you want.

• Do you want seating for quiet reflection? How many people do you usually entertain and what type of entertaining do you enjoy doing? Do you need a large table and chairs or just a simple set of comfy chairs with an end table between them?
• What are your storage needs and where will you store your furniture if you need to get it out of the elements?
• If you’d like to be able to move your seating from place to place, then something lightweight would be in order.

5)Determine the pieces you want to buy.

• Dining tables
• Loveseats Benches
• Coffee tables
• End tables
• Cushions,Pillows
• Patio umbrella
• Dining chairs
• Gliders
• Lounge chairs
• Rockers
• Ottomans
• Serving tables
• Patio swing
• Hammocks

6)Choose the right material for you.

You want your lawn and garden furniture to be durable while you want it to look nice and require minimal maintenance. Garden furniture resides in a harsh outdoor environment so much must be considered.

Wrought iron furniture is indestructible and can be found in many styles ranging from elaborate Victorian detailing to rustic branch and leaf designs to sleek contemporary forms.

• This material will heat up during the summer and be very cold in the winter.
• It's heavy, so it's best for a patio or deck rather than grass.
• Maintenance includes cleaning your pieces with mild soap and rinse with a soft spray from the garden hose at the beginning and end of season. Cracks in the finish should be touched up with paint. If taken care of, it will last for decades.

Aluminum is lighter than wrought iron and doesn't rust. But it certainly doesn't last as long as wrought iron.

• If unpainted, protect it with car wax or mineral oil, depending on what the manufacturer’s tag recommends.
• Clean this furniture with soapy water and hose down to rinse it off.

Wicker is lightweight and can easily be moved . It also comes in many colors for coordinating with your color schemes.

• Should get an all season wicker that will hold up against the elements of the outdoors. Or a resin wicker, which is wrapped around a steel or aluminum frame, making it more durable and easier to clean.
• Is very comfortable seating.
• Brings the look and feel of upholstered furniture to the outdoors. Be sure to use all-weather fabrics on your seat cushions.
• Cleaning includes vacuuming it over. Then washing with a mild detergent in water, rinse it off with a hose and let it air dry

Wooden outdoor furniture makes for a nice earthy look and goes well with a variety of garden styles including Natural, Contemporary, English, French, Rustic, Adirondack and Asian.

• This furniture when exposed to outdoor elements will change from warm hues of new wood to the natural tones of the outdoors. Honey turns fawn grey. If you want to keep it the original hue you will need to apply a sealant.
• Wooden outdoor furniture is made from two categories of wood.
  Tropical woods: teak, eucalyptus, mahogany, ipe, iroko, jarrah, balau, keruing
  North American grown wood: cedar, redwood, cypress, pressure-treated pine
• Built solid and sturdy and will not blow over easily during storms
• Tropical woods last 50 to 80 years and North American woods for 10 to 25 years.
• This is a purchase is an investment that will last for many years to come. Tropical wood sets will cost more than North American wood. Quality of teak woods do vary so if you find a great price that indicates lesser quality
• Some of your North American woods will require regular application of a preservative. But cleaning for all woods will be easy with mild soap and water

Plastic furniture is very affordable and a great choice if you have a tight budget.

• Often this furniture is stackable.
• You can get this in in a variety of styles. Contemporary styles really look great in this material.
• The color range is practically unending.
• There are also Environmentally Friendly Poly Furniture which is made of recycled plastic bottles -- good for the environment but will be more expensive.
• Cleaning involves spray it down with the same mildew busting product you use in your shower and hosing it off.

7)Choose the right cushions & pillows.

• Make sure you have a place to store them when you're not outside.
• Look for pillows that have some kind of color stay protection, as well as polyester fibers to allow air to filter through.
• Get cushions with patterns on both sides.

8)Go with an umbrella that's a lighter, neutral color. Otherwise a bright colored umbrella will look faded and dull by the end of the summer.

9)Make sure you have a place to put the furniture during the winter months. If not, consider investing in heavy duty covers to protect each of the pieces


If you are looking for new wrought iron furniture, wooden outdoor furniture, Environmentally Friendly Poly Furniture or many other items to enhance your backyard..spend some time on my website..YourGardenRetreat.com

Some other articles that may be of interest to you:
Fire Pits add warmth and style to your outdoor space
7 ways to transform your outdoor living space
May Backyard and Garden Care Tips

16 bugs gardeners should love..

I found this on msn and loved it so much I decided to copy and put in my blog for everyone to enjoy.

By Marilyn Lewis of MSN Real Estate
You’re not alone in your garden. Thousands of spiders, flies, beetles, worms, bees and other small creatures are laboring, usually quietly, alongside you. Their presence is a gardener’s gift. Repay it by avoiding nonorganic pesticides, says W.M. Hood, professor of entomology at Clemson University in South Carolina. “If you have to use some of the bad pesticides, do it late in the evening when they are not foraging,” he says. “Some of the effects will have worn off by the next day.”
1) Ladybug
These tiny (0.3 to 0.4 inch) critters are a species of beetle. They look like itty-bitty Volkswagen “bugs” with great paint jobs. Many wear distinctive black polka dots on a background of red, orange, yellow or gray. Others have black splotches or stripes, while some are solid. In many places in North America, native ladybugs are being replaced by species imported from Southeast Asia.
The benefit: When your prize roses or tender vegetable crops are plagued with aphid infestations, ladybugs come to the rescue: Adults eat 100 aphids a day; larvae can consume 100 aphids an hour. Ladybugs also devour garden mites, small insects and the eggs of pests like mealybugs, thrips, boll worms, leaf hoppers and scale.
Locale: Throughout North America.
Attract them: Plant or encourage dandelions, dill, wild carrots, Queen Anne’s lace, angelica, cilantro, fennel, cosmos, geraniums, tansy, dwarf morning glory or coreopsis. Keep the garden moist. Buy a ladybug house.


2) Dragonfly or damselfly
North America has 450 species of Odonata, ranging from less than an inch to 6 inches long. All have big, compound eyes and four transparent wings on a long, narrow body. These stunning creatures are bright and sometimes iridescent blue, green, yellow, violet or red. They lay eggs in or near water, where the young (“nymphs”) live for a time.
The benefit: Dragonflies feast on mosquitoes, aphids and other garden pests.
Locale: Found in most states. The Dragonfly Society of the Americas hosts this list of links and species by state.
Attract them: They’re drawn to bodies of water. If none is nearby, a garden pond or a plastic wading pool will attract them
3)Spider
Spiders aren’t insects; they’re arachnids. There are between 37,000 and 40,000 species worldwide. All have eight legs and a two-part body with a small head and a bigger abdomen. They range from nearly microscopic to giant tarantulas, whose leg span can reach 10 inches. Most spiders are shy and harmless. The ones that enter houses are different from the garden species.
The benefit: Spiders eat huge quantities of insects, killing more garden pests than all other beneficial bugs combined.
Locale: They live everywhere except Antarctica.
Attract them: Spread mulch on the garden; they love moisture and hiding places. Leave some areas uncultivated. Let leaves and stalks stand over the winter.
4)Ground beetle
About 2,500 species have been identified in North America. Most are a half-inch to an inch long, though a few are bigger. Ground beetles are generally black or brown with long, skinny legs. They are nocturnal and hide during the day under leaves and stones.
The benefit: They take down slugs and snails, the bane of many gardeners’ lives, and eat a host of other garden pests, too, including cutworms and root maggots. They clean up the garden, poking under fallen leaves for insects to eat.
Locale: Many species are dispersed throughout North America.
Attract them: Include low-growing plants for them to hide under; grow amaranth
5) Hover fly
Hover flies are also called syrphid flies, drone flies or flower flies. Their size ranges from about a quarter-inch to more than a half-inch in length. The black and yellow horizontal stripes might make you think they’re bees or wasps, but hover flies don’t sting. Here’s how to tell the difference: Bees and wasps have four wings; flies — hover flies included — have just two wings. Hover flies can hang in the air like tiny helicopters, darting and hovering from flower to flower. They’ll even fly backward.
The benefit: They not only eat loads of aphids and lay their eggs right in the aphid colonies, but their voracious larvae eat masses of aphids, caterpillars, mealybugs, thrips and scale. Besides cleaning up garden pests, hover flies help pollinate flowers.
Locale: Hover flies live in most states in the U.S.
Attract them: Plant alyssum, globe candytuft, dwarf morning glory, cosmos, Queen Anne’s lace, statice, lupine and parsley.
6)Green lacewing
Like dragonflies, green lacewings have long, slender bodies and big wings. But lacewings are even more delicate, and their green wings are covered with a lacelike network of veins. They have copper-colored eyes and long, slender antennae.
The benefit: The adults eat aphids. But the appetite of infant lacewings earns them the name “aphid lions.” The babies look like little alligators and they also eat spider mites, leafhopper nymphs, mealybugs, whiteflies, caterpillars and other garden pests and their eggs.
Locale: They live in the American Midwest, West and Northeast.
Attract them: Grow fernleaf yarrow, cosmos, Queen Anne’s lace, fennel and tansy.
7)Bumblebee
These big, noisy insects are often confused with honeybees. Both are furry, but bumblebees are bigger — nearly an inch long. They’re mostly black, perhaps with stripes of yellow, brown or a bit of red. They nest in the ground. Unlike honeybees, which lose their stingers when they strike, bumblebee stingers can be withdrawn and used again and again.
The benefit: In their work of taking nectar from flowers, they track pollen from plant to plant, fertilizing plants as they go. Because of their size, bumblebees are even more efficient pollinators than honeybees. But they are less numerous, with only a couple hundred per colony.
Locale: There’s probably at least one bumblebee species near you. Here’s an illustrated chart.
Attract them: Grow a variety of flowering plants in each season, including these bee favorites: sunflowers, plum trees, clover, vetch, cherry trees, apples, willow and yellow poplar.
8)Paper wasp
There are as many as 21 different paper wasps. They are a mixed blessing, because they will sting, although they usually leave people alone unless they’re bothered. You’ll know them by their long, narrow bodies and their conical, gray, papery nests. Unlike bees, wasps are not hairy.
The benefit: Unless they’ve built a nest too near your home, “détente” is a good policy, since paper wasps eat caterpillars whose ravenous gnawing can badly damage trees and garden plants.
Locale: The American Northeast, Florida, the West Coast, Nevada, Utah, Arizona and Colorado.
Attract them: Plant fennel or have a picnic (they like food).
9)Butterfly
Butterflies have slender bodies, knobbed antennae and relatively massive wings with a great range of patterns and colors that vary by species. Some migrate huge distances with the seasons.
The benefit: A few are pests because their hungry larvae — caterpillars — damage crops and trees. But most help humans: As butterflies flit from plant to plant, searching for nectar, pollen sticks to their legs, and they inadvertently fertilize flowers and crops. They’re less efficient than honeybees, but with the losses of honeybee colonies to mysterious illness, the butterfly’s importance as a pollinator is growing.
Locale: Every state has butterflies. This map of the states at TheButterflySite.com shows species by county.
Attract them: Butterflies love big, bright-colored flowers on which they can rest, wings spread, while sipping nectar. Some gardeners create butterfly gardens to attract them. TheButterflySite.com explains how and lists favorite plants — including red clover, oregano, marigold, cosmos, zinnia, butterfly bush, garlic and black-eyed Susans — for nectar and for hosting butterflies and caterpillars. Also, see The University of Kentucky’s site for butterfly gardeners
10)Honeybee
There are many bee species but only one honeybee. Honeybees are about half the size of bumblebees — roughly a half-inch long.
The benefit: Because each colony contains thousands of individuals, honeybees are the best pollinators, making them valuable to both farmers and gardeners.
Locale: Although they have been widely distributed throughout the United States, entire colonies have been mysteriously dying in the last several years. The reason for colony collapse disorder is unclear, although some experts believe that mite infestations, together with susceptibility from environmental stresses, may be at fault.
Attract them: Grow a variety of flowering plants in each season, including these bee favorites: sunflowers, plum trees, clover, vetch, cherry trees, apples, willow and yellow poplar.
11)Beneficial nematode
Nematodes are tiny parasitic worms that attack the larvae of soil-dwelling insects but are otherwise harmless. They are so effective at controlling 200 or more species of pests that they are used on a large scale for agricultural pest control.
The benefit: They’re used in lawn care and gardens to control pests such as fleas, crane flies, caterpillars, large beetles and root weevils. They’re not toxic to people or animals.
Locale: It’s necessary to purchase beneficial nematodes from a supplier to use them in pest control. Products include BioSafe, Guardian, Scanmask, Exhibit, BioVector and Oti-Nem.
Attract them:Beneficial nematodes must be repurchased yearly and applied according to specific supplier directions, at the rate of about 6,000 to 46,000 per square foot. Here’s a fact sheet from Colorado State University extension service.
12)Earthworm
Earthworms (large ones are also called night crawlers) are treasured by organic gardeners. They aerate the soil and break down leaves, wood, grass and stems into rich soil. Researchers report 182 categories of earthworms in the U.S. and Canada; some individuals can reach 12 to 14 inches.
The benefit: Earthworms force air into the soil as they tunnel through it, loosening the ground, which allows roots to spread and water to drain. Their rich castings (excrement) make nutrients from compost available to plants. Earthworms make good fishing bait and, more importantly, they’re the basis for many food chains and sustain numerous species of birds.
Locale: Throughout the United States.
Attract them: Avoid pesticides. Use plenty of organic compost, which gives them food and warms the soil in the winter and cools it in summer.
13)Centipedes and millipedes
These invertebrates lay eggs in the ground each autumn and spring. They molt repeatedly, adding body sections, each with its own set of legs. Centipedes have one set of legs per segment, millipedes have two. They can reach 3 inches in length, depending on the species. Although they can bite, North American species are not dangerous. They like the damp and hide in cracks and under logs, rocks or leaves, coming out at night.
The benefit: Centipedes and millipedes are both a help and a hindrance for homeowners. They’re great for the garden, if only they’ll stay there. Millipedes chew up organic material into fluffy, rich compost. Centipedes patrol the garden for slugs, fly pupae, cockroaches, crickets and worms. Big centipedes, such as those that live in South America’s Amazon jungle, even eat small birds, bats and reptiles. But some species come indoors. Although they eat spiders, carpet beetles and ants indoors, they’re usually unwelcome. Seal cracks and openings to keep them out. This University of Kentucky article tells how to treat more serious indoor invasions.
Locale: Throughout the United States.
Attract them: Mulch deeply and avoid tilling the soil deeply.
14)Praying mantis
This weird, elegant creature can morph from brown to green to gray, melding inconspicuously into its surroundings. The long stem of a neck rotates the triangular head for a 300-degree scan. There are about 2,000 species of this cockroach relative. They range from less than a half-inch to 6 inches long. The mantis (or mantid) has five eyes (two compound and three simple) that spot movement 60 feet away. Its hooked and serrated forelegs fold up neatly, giving it the appearance of a penitent at prayer. (Watch a mantid eat a wasp in this YouTube video.)
The benefit: Mantids eat pests, including aphids, moths, beetles, crickets, mosquitoes, grasshoppers and flies.
Locale: Mantids live wild in parts of the South and the Eastern U.S. They’re the state insect of Connecticut.
Attract them: Mantids are difficult to attract. They’re marketed to home gardeners for purchase as a biological control agent but are not usually effective because of their short lives and tendency to eat other beneficial bugs, including each other.
15)Assassin bug
True to its name, this bug creeps up on prey, using its curved beak to inject saliva that liquefies the captive’s innards, which it then sucks up. Assassins range from tiny to longer than an inch. They have long heads on narrow necks and range in color from dark to pale with splashes of brown, black, orange or red.
The benefit: They eat beetles, mosquitoes, bedbugs, aphids, caterpillars and flies, but they can be tough to have around because they also eat bees, and some species bite humans and carry disease.
Locale: About 100 species are found across North America.
Attract them: Encourage or plant alfalfa, daisies, camphorweed, Queen Anne’s lace, goldenrod, carrots and their relatives, and oleander.
16)Firefly (or lightning bug)
This beetle is a summer evening favorite in many parts of the U.S. because the luminous organ on its abdomen lights up to attract a mate. Fireflies are a half-inch to an inch long.
The benefit: The carnivorous larvae of the 136 species in North America devour other insects’ larvae, cutworms, slugs and snails but also, alas, earthworms.
Locale: Fireflies breed in regions where summer humidity is high.
Attract them: Encourage preservation of large meadows, wetlands, streams and prairies.

Buy something new for your backyard today!! Check out my website for lots of cool stuff. Wooden Outdoor furniture, Decorative Birdhouses, Squirrel proof birdfeeders, birdbaths, tuned windchimes, Poly Recyled Furniture, and much more.

Some other articles that may be of interest to you:
Planting and caring for Annuals
May Backyard and Garden Care Tips
Great Gardening Blogs & Websites

Great Burger Recipe for Grilling this Weekend

I found Glazed Bacon-and-Cheese-Filled Burgers on Country Living Website and it is an amazing recipe

.. a must try..this memorial day weekend


Ingredients:
3 tablespoon(s) dark brown sugar
1 1/2 teaspoon(s) paprika
1/2 teaspoon(s) garlic powder
1/2 teaspoon(s) ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon(s) chipotle powder
1/4 teaspoon(s) salt
1/4 teaspoon(s) fresh-ground pepper
1 pound(s) ground beef
1/2 cup(s) shredded sharp cheddar cheese
6 slice(s) bacon, cooked and crumbled
4 rolls

Directions

• Heat grill to medium.
• Combine the sugar, spices, salt, and pepper in a small bowl and set aside.
• Form the beef into 8 equal patties.
• Toss the cheese and crumbled bacon together and place an equal amount on 4 of the patties.
• Place the remaining patties over the cheese and bacon and pinch the edges to seal.
• Generously pat each burger with the reserved spice mixture.
• Grill to desired doneness -- about 5 minutes per side for medium.

If you want bigger burgers increase the amount of ground beef..

Planting and Caring for Annuals

I love my perennials and put most of my planning efforts each year into choosing, moving, and planting them. Yet my garden would not be complete without annuals filling in when my perennials fade for their season.

My favorites are: marigolds, blue saliva, ageratum, begonias, pansies, zinnias, cosmos, cleome(pictured above), vinca, snapdragons(taller versions)and geraniums.

Unlike what is recommended I plant 3 plants(from pack of 6 or 4) together in one hole. I have found that this insures that I will have a larger plant sooner in the season and if one of the plants die it is not as apparent since the other two usually thrive.

I used impatiens for the first time this year and the rabbits ate every single one of them the very next day!! In the past I have had to keep my pansies sprayed with deer/rabbit repellent but I did not know they liked impatiens. Did a little research and found that rabbits favorites plants to eat are asters, hostas, hybrid lilies, impatiens, pansies and tulips. That being said if they are hungry enough the will eat anything and I just found evidence that they have been nibbling at my phlox and bellflower!!!

When researching this post I referred to gardenguides.com, howstuffworks.com, and University of Illinois.

When to plant

Don't be in a hurry to plant too soon. Most annuals cannot be planted until after all danger of frost and prefer warm soils and stable temperatures to grow well. In my area (zone 6) I usually plant on Mothers Day and I am fine.

The best time to plant is late in the afternoon. Before planting, water your plants and the soil in your bed well.

Where to plant

Most annuals like at least 6 to 8 hours of sun a day. There are many annuals that will do well in part shade or filtered sun. These include ageratum, browallia, coleus, dianthus, fuschia, impatiens, lobelia, pansy, salvia, Inca, and wishbone flower. Few if any annuals will do well in complete shade.

Soil

Majority of annuals prefer well-drained soil with a moderate humus content. If your soil is clay, you can amend it with compost or well-rotted manure

If your soil pH falls within the 6.0-7.4 range, you should be able to grow most annuals. If ph test reveals that your soil is too acid or alkaline, it can be altered with amendments, such as lime for acid soil and aluminum sulfate for alkaline soil.

How to plant

Lift plants from the cell packs or pots. The best way to do this is to either gently squeeze or push up the bottom of the container if pliable. Sometimes if the plant just doesn't seem to want to come out I gently tear the pack.

Gently break up the root-ball of annuals. Often, the roots have overgrown the potting area and become matted. You'll have to pull off the tangles so the roots will be able to grow freely into the soil.

Dig a hole slightly larger than the root ball. I then put smart release plant food-"Osmocote" in the hole. I find fertilizing this way easier.

Place plant in dug hole at the same level or just slightly lower than they were grown in the container. Carefully put soil firmly around the roots.

Mulching

After annuals are planted, it is suggested that a 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch be applied around the plants. Not only is it attractive, but it also helps conserve soil moisture, retard weed growth and keeps soils cool.

Watering

Water well after planting and keep moist until the plants are established and new growth has started.

Subsequently watering is needed when you test the soil by sticking your finger down 2-3 inches into the soil and it is dry. Remember, it's always better to check too often rather than not often enough. Don't wait until drooping plants indicate that the soil is parched.

Deep, infrequent watering is much preferred over frequent, light watering because it encourages a deep root system. Stop watering when the soil is moistened to a 4-inch depth. A good approach is to use an automatic sprinkler, letting it gently "rain" for an extended period of time. Check at half-hour intervals to see how deeply the water has penetrated. The best approach is soaker hoses which eliminate the problem of excess water on leaves and flowers that could lead to mildew or fungus problems.

Personally I still use sprinklers and water early enough in the day so the foliage dries off before nightfall.. I keep saying I am going to get soaker hoses but have not got around to getting them.

Fertilizing

Like I state above I use smart release plant food and do not need to fertilize again.

However if you have not used this method then you will need to fertilize at least twice during the growing season. Initial soil preparation provides the necessary fertilization at time of planting. Subsequent fertilizing should be done 6-8 weeks after planting and then 6 weeks after that.

Fertilizers are applied in a dry granular or powder form, or mixed with water for a liquid application. The granular or powder foods should be broadcast over the soil surface and dug in; liquid applications can be made with a hand sprayer or a special mixing attachment for your garden hose.

For best absorption, fertilize when the soil is moist. Take care to apply it on the soil rather than on the plant leaves. The plants, your hands, and the fertilizer should be dry when you fertilize. Caution: Always wash your hands after handling fertilizer.

Ongoing care

"Deadhead" your flowers– pick the spent flowers before they start to set seed – the plant will produce more flowers in an effort to ultimately produce seeds. This practice keeps annuals in the flowering stage longer and usually results in a greater number of blooms. Annuals such as marigold, zinnias, salvia, geranium, cosmos and other spike or single stem flowers particularly benefit from this practice.

"Pinching Back" your annuals to encourage compact growth and a neater appearance. Remove the growth bud at the end of the main stem when the plant is in its rapid growth stage. The best time to do this is at the time you set your plants into your beds. This can be done four weeks later also.

The tops of some plants, such as petunia and impatiens, may be cut back 6-8 inches in mid to late summer after the first flush of flowers has subsided to promote a second flowering period in the fall. A good time to do this is right after the Fourth of July holiday

Weeding not only keeps the bed more attractive, but also eliminates possible hosts for insects and disease and allows the flowers to receive the full benefit of the available moisture and nutrients. Weed carefully when the annuals are young so as not to disturb the young roots.

Remember I have lots of neat stuff on my website for your backyard..outdoor garden fountains, wooden outdoor furniture, recycled poly furniture, decorative birdhouses and birdfeeders, outdoor candle lanterns, and tuned wind chimes. Happy Gardening

5 Things To Do When Monitoring Your Nesting Houses

I am beginning to understand the importance of monitoring my nesting boxes and decorative birdhouses. Part of being a responsible bird house landlord is a willingness to look after your wild tenants. So I did a little research and found this valuable information. My sources were the North American Bluebird Society, North Carolina Bluebird Society, Birdwatchers Digest & AttractingWildBirds.com

• Monitoring of Birdhouses leads to early detection of problems and a greater chance of your songbirds survival
  
• Birdhouses should be easily accessible for monitoring and cleaning.
  
• Your should devote a separate notebook to your nest boxes, allowing several pages per nest box. Record what you see during your nest box inspections.

WHEN AND HOW TO CHECK YOUR NESTING BOXES?

Your should check your decorative birdhouses or nesting boxes once a week in the afternoon during nesting season. See nesting chart. Nest monitoring should only be done during calm, mild, and dry weather conditions

Watch the nest for 20-30 minutes. Then go over and tap on the side of the nest box before opening it. Do not stand in front of the entrance hole! The adult will usually leave and the young will huddle down in the nest

Open the box very slowly and carefully. Be prepared for predators and wasps. Complete the monitoring as quickly as possible to minimize disturbance

If the door is on the side or front the nestlings may jump out. If this happens, don’t panic. Just pick them up and put them back in the nest. Don’t worry that the adults will reject the nestlings if you handle them. That’s an urban legend.

SO WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FOR?

1)Information to record in your field journal.Is the box being used? By what species? Has courtship or nest building begun? If there is a nest in the box, what is it made of? If there are eggs, how many and what do they look like?

Songbirds have a very poor sense of smell and will not abandon the nest due to your handling the nest, eggs, or chicks

Knowing when the eggs were laid will help you determine if they are infertile, or when they should hatch and when the young would be expected to leave the nest.

Songbirds usually lay an egg once a day. This will be followed by an incubation period of 11-14 days. Then egg hatching period is every 24-48 hrs. Followed by Nestling period of 2- 3 weeks.. Once fledglings(birds getting ready to fly and leave nest) are 14 days old it is critical to stop checking on them because it may cause them to leave the nest prematurely. This reinforces importance of checking your boxes regularly so you know how old they are. See more detailed information on nest monitoring from Nestwatch at Cornell Lab of Ornithology

2)Insects such as fleas, mites, larvae, and lice are often found on the bottom panel. If you find them make sure you use insecticides known to be safe around birds: (1 percent rotenone powder or pyrethrin spray.) If wasps are a problem, coat the inside top of the box with bar soap

3)Unwanted creatures such as squirrels, mice, or snakes should be removed

4)Bully birds such as European Starlings and House Sparrows – remove their nests. If you have presence of European Starlings the entrance hole of your birdhouse or box is larger of 1.5 inches. See birdhouse dimension chart. You will need to get new house or box other wise you will continually fight the presence of starlings. In the case of House sparrows you need to have the ability to recognize the bird or their nest. See picture below. And once you determine it is house sparrow you must eliminate nest. House Sparrows & Starlings are non-native invasive birds and are legal to dispose of. See my posting about the dangers these birds pose for our songbirds.

5)Blowfly parasitism Real problem for bluebirds. If it is uncontrolled, the larvae of this species may weaken or possibly even kill the nestling bluebirds. If chicks are in the nest, look under the nest for signs of blowfly larvae. The chicks themselves should be examined for small scars, particularly under the wings which indicates blowfly parasitism. Sometimes you may observe the larvae attached to the chick. These are easily removed by hand. If you identify larvae in the nest, you should replace all the nest material with dried lawn clippings in a shape similar to that of the original nest. This will increase the chance that the chicks will survive. Many bluebird enthusiasts replace all nests holding chicks periodically even before the blowfly larvae are visible. You should also replace any nest with young birds that has been saturated following rainfall. This is especially important during cold periods.
When handling the chicks or removing them from the nest they should be placed in something that will protect them from the sun or wind while preventing their escape. Avoid disposing used nest material near the nest site or predators may be attracted to the site. Always be certain to close the box door securely before leaving. Record what you observed
(I have never seen this or want to see this larvae in my boxes but I thought it was important information for anyone who does have this problem.)

After any nesting effort has ended, either due to nest failure or successful fledging of the young, the nest should be removed from the box. If a songbird nest was successful, re-nesting in the same box will be encouraged if the first nest is removed. This should be done when all chicks have left the nest.

HOW TO IDENTIFY NESTS AND EGGS BY SPECIES

Bluebird: The 1-4 in. tall nest is built with fine grasses or pine needles with a fairly deep nest cup. Eggs (4-6) are powder blue or occasionally white.
Tree swallow: Their nest is also made of grasses but they may use somewhat coarser fibers than a bluebird. The nest generally has a flatter cup than the bluebird's and is usually lined with feathers or occasionally scraps of paper. Eggs (5-7) are white and smaller than those of a bluebird.
House wren: Wrens fill a nest box with sticks and line the deep nest cup with fine plant fibers or feathers. "Dummy nests" without the nest cup are often built in all other cavities within the male wren's territory to reduce competition for resources. The eggs (6-8) are tan, speckled with brown and quite small.
Black-capped chickadee: Chickadees build a nest of moss and plant down with the nest cup lined with hair. They lay 5-8 white eggs covered with brown speckles. Eggs are often covered with moss when the female leaves the box.
House sparrow: House sparrows build a tall nest of coarse grasses, often with pieces of scrap paper, cellophane, or other garbage. The nest forms a canopy with a tunnel-like entrance to the 5-7 cream-colored eggs with brown markings.

If you need a new nesting box , decorative birdhouse, or outdoor garden decor for your backyard visit my website YourGardenRetreat.com.

Other articles that may be of interest
Get rid of those Bully Birds.. do not feed them!!
Water will attract more Birds to your Backyard
Your Birdhouse ready for Nesting Season

May Backyard and Garden Care Tips

Keep your wild birdfeeders and yard fountains clean.

• Wild bird feeders need constant cleaning to maintain sanitary conditions. Unclean receptacles can develop fungi and bacteria, potentially causing disease and even death of your visiting birds. So it is important to clean your bird feeders once a month all year round. See here for detail cleaning instructions
• Keep your outdoor garden fountains clean. Preventive maintenance is key in countering fungus and algae. Various fountain tips on these methods can be found.here

Monitor your decorative birdhouses and nesting boxes.

• Part of having a bird house is the need to monitor your boxes for unwanted creatures such as house sparrows, starlings, rodents, snakes, insects.
• We have seen some sites that recommend killing the invasive species, but we choose to not take that action. Instead we have found that when invasive species try to use our decorative birdhouses or nesting boxes we just keep removing the nesting material until they give up, which they will eventually.
• See this detailed Bird Nesting Chart for nesting seasons, materials and more for your favorite birds
• More information on monitoring your birdhouses will follow in upcoming weeks..see post

Change your garden birdbath water regularly which is important for the health of your birds. See more information

Clean your outdoor wooden furniture and apply a wood protectant. More specific instructions and considerations are outlined here.

May Garden Chores (specific to Northeast..see below for links to other areas of country)

1)Early May chores that can be completed while evening temperatures remain below 55 degrees includes focusing on perennials, shrubs and trees, and attending to spring bulbs.

• Divide most perennials as long as they're not spring bloomers and as long as the foliage isn't more than 5 or 6 inches high
  
• Deadhead spent flowerheads on spring-blooming bulbs to direct their energy back to their roots so they can build vigor for next year
  
• Finish up any pruning this month with the exception of spring-blooming trees and shrubs.
  
• Plant container-grown trees, shrubs, perennial herbs, and perennial flowers. You can give planting bare-root plants a try this month, but it's getting awfully late and they aren't as likely to thrive at this point as the more established container plants.

2)May Chores completed after the fear of frost has passed includes planting annuals, putting down mulch & complete pruning.

• Plant warm-season annuals (flowers and vegetables). Including plants for containers, pots, windowboxes, and planters. Remove any cool-season flowers, such as pansies, that you may already have there. Work in a slow-release fertilizer.
  
• Good time to move household plants outdoors shaded area. Also good time to repot and fertilize
  
• Once you are done planting and tulips have faded which is usually in the last days of May, put down mulch. Be sure that you pull all weeds prior to laying mulch.
  
• Once spring flowering shrubs have finished blooming, prune the shrubs.
  
• Keep new plantings well-watered.
  
• Memorial Day is a good time to fertilize your lawn with slow release nitrogen.

I obtained much of my information from Living the Country Life and Garden Detective

For those in different areas of the country go to the applicable link below:

• The Pacific Northwest
• The South
• Southern California
• The Midwest
• The Desert Southwest
• Mountain West and High Plains

Remember if you are looking to add a garden decoration to your backyard, make sure you visit my website YourGarden Retreat.com. We offer decorative birdhouses, nesting boxes, wild birdfeeders, garden birdbaths, yard fountains, wooden outdoor furniture and more...

Some other articles that may be of interest to you:
4 Tips for Getting Your Outdoor Fountain Flowing Again
What to Do with those Easter Plants: Lilies, Tulips...
Water will Attract more Birds to Your Backyard